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This is the most important thing – no matter what he is being exposed to, we do not leave until he is completely calm and relaxed. Which means if we must sit near his object of fear for 2 hours we will do so until he could be totally calm and that becomes his last memory of the function.
I say this laughingly since when I first tried this method I wasn’t very good at really becoming calm, but I attempted to desensitize my dog to the (very scary) bathroom. We sat on the toilet floor for 2 hours before my dog became his normal calm self and we could FINALLY leave the toilet (although I couldn’t feel my hip and legs).
- 7 years back from Parsippany, New Jersey
- Attracts the Best Talent
- Understand customer needs and anticipate market evolutions
- They start strong
Aversive training can be used to both discourage bad behaviors and to encourage good actions. Similarly reward training can also be used to do both. As someone who’s grown up surrounded by dogs (large dogs at that!), there are always a couple things in every dog training show (or just in a dog trainer’s mantra) that I can never see the point of.
Firstly, It’s Me Or YOUR DOG, and her incessant use of clicker training. We never had to use that on our canines and to today I don’t see the point of teaching your dog that a click means a delicacy. I feel like the use of a clicker introduces a handicap in the training process right away almost.
If we needed your dog to take the action, we had two ways of going about doing it. Gently (but tightly) coaxing the dog into the desired position or place; for example, a tap on the rump for “sit” or picking right up the feet for “shake”. One of them was a Dalmatian/GSD combine who was simply a young adult at the right time of her save. She was, let’s just say, an extremely bad dog. Apart from the parting panic, she was extremely territorial and intense toward anyone who arrived to the home that was not originally area of the family.
Obviously that needed to stop, even more so when kids were being launched to the situation. She was leashed when introducing people. If she reacted badly, she first got a quick leash modification. No to-do or fanfare. A quick tug Just. That was enough to get her snapped from it usually. If it wasn’t, she was “banished” to some other room where she could start to see the visitors interacting peacefully with the family but couldn’t come in. Eventually she was gradually reintroduced and within a few months the behavior all but vanished.
The only thing my parents couldn’t get rid of was a brutal security toward my siblings as newborns; no one could touch them except my parents or they would have dog teeth around their wrist. In any full case, things such as choke/prong/shock collars, halti/harnesses, leash corrections, and whatnot is that everything depends on the dog.
The dog my parents own now is Chow/Lab/Goldie/? She now favors walking at a heel to the main point where I could have her on a loose leash and she makes a spot of following slightly behind my right foot. A halt or funnel wouldn’t normally have achieved the same results, and a string/prong would overkill have been.
On the flip aspect, one of my siblings has a GSD/GSP and he was a notorious puller with a normal collar and funnel, but he freaked over the utilization of the string or choker completely. As in, the very first time he felt it tighten from his pulling he did one particular backflips animals do when caught in snares, and this wasn’t even because of this of the leash correction! Instead she put a hat on him and he has walked calmly ever since. In the same thread of thought, I’m a firm believer that the dog almost tells you what motivates it.